Vienna, 2022

From Mid November until Christmas a great deal of Vienna’s historical squares turns into enchanting little Christmas Markets. Numerous booths and installations invite you to a winterly stroll with the typical aromas of Christmas in the air. A hot punch or mulled wine in your hand will help you to warm up and you can marvel at the local craftwork like glass decoration and ceramics or taste the numerous culinary treats.

The list of Christmas Markets in Vienna is sheer endless and yet each of them is a little different. Some prominent markets can be found at the City-Park, Schönbrunn, Belvedere, on Karlsplatz or on Freyung to name just a handful. Traditional Christmas music and choral singing sets the mood that is also reflected in the decorated streets and festive lights in the city centre with the tree of hearts at the Rathausplatz being a  highlight and special attraction for couples in love. 

Some Christmas markets offer a place for ice-skating or curling lanes, some entertain the family with a children’s railway and an old-fashioned carousel.

Don’t miss out on this wonderful opportunity to experience the seasonal attractions of Vienna.

Photos: © WienTourismus/Christian Stemper

• ▸ Some 450 balls
• ▸ Frequented by 300.000 dance lovers
• ▸ From New Year to March (with an exception in June)
• ▸ Traditional rules and ceremony program
• ▸ Strict adherence to dress code
• ▸ Dating back to the Congress of Vienna 1814/15

When you come to Vienna in February you should seriously consider to experience the Vienna Ball Season!

For more than two centuries Vienna has been the uncontested ball capital of the world. Each year the city hosts around 450 events, from traditional high society galas to wild carnival parties. A unique blend of age-old Austrian traditions, magnificent court ceremonial and the trademark Viennese waltz has seen the capital’s ball industry turn into one of the nation’s best-loved exports with replica events playing out in around 30 cities worldwide, from New York to Moscow. But nothing beats the original – the romance and charm puts the Viennese ball season in a league of its own.

More than 450 balls take place in the Austrian capital every year, each attracting anything up to 5,500 guests. They all take place in accordance with traditional rules. First, a ball committee must be appointed. Then there is an honorary committee made up of high-ranking public servants and other dignitaries. The highest-profile balls are normally hosted under the patronage of the Federal President. All names are printed on the invitation, which is in fact a beautifully designed pamphlet that also gives the date and venue, dress code, program and the admission charge. The boxes at the Opera Ball are extremely expensive, but despite the price tag they are highly sought after. The city’s other prestigious balls, such as those held in Hofburg palace, are considerably less costly. Tickets for general admission are significantly more affordable than table reservations. Wandering through the ball rooms between dances, or savoring the atmosphere at the buffet or cocktail bar are just some of the most enjoyable aspects of a Viennese ball night. Some events even install wine taverns complete with traditional Schrammelmusik for the night.

One of the most immediately obvious things about a genuine Viennese ball is the strict adherence to the dress code. Women are expected to wear full length gowns or traditional Austrian costume, while the gentlemen must wear tails or a tuxedo, giving them the opportunity to display their orders and badges of honor. At the opera ball it is strictly tails only. It should be noted that wearing a wristwatch is seen as something of a faux pas; a golden watch complete with chain is de rigeur. At the other balls, guests must wear a tuxedo or fine black suit with bow tie. Neck ties are taboo. In addition to the stylish clothing, the slick ceremonial program bears witness to the formality of the occasion.

Come waltzing

The ball is officially opened with a procession into the main hall led by the young ladies’ and gentlemen’s “committee”.

The girls opening a ball for the first time are called debutantes. This “debut” is part of the ritual which dates back to the days of the monarchy – the formal introduction into society. Dressed in a long white robe, with a coronet in their hair and long white gloves, they proceed onto the dance floor arm in arm with their tuxedoed escorts, usually to the music of the “Fächer-Polonaise” by Carl Michael Ziehrer, former chief conductor of the imperial court, which is played at practically all opening ceremonies. At the end of this solemn ritual comes a waltz – with the pairs turning anticlockwise. This is not as easy as it might sound and is perhaps one of the reasons why dance schools are so well attended. In Vienna alone there are over 30 of them. Great importance is attached to the aesthetic precision of the figures. Executed correctly, the rhythmic movements create a spellbinding visual in black and white. The opening ceremony is brought to a close when the call “AllesWalzer” is heard from the director of the dance school organizing the ball, inviting all of the guests onto the dance floor – this time to waltz in a clockwise direction.

Midnight is a special time, whatever the ball. Ballgoers can expect concerts and performances, with highlights including specially choreographed sets by dance troupes from leading Viennese dance schools. Another midnight favorite is the quadrille, which has been danced since the 19th century. Thanks to its catchy melody, the most popular is the Fledermaus quadrille by Johann Strauss. The steps to this jaunty pair and group dance are fairly complicated and are explained in advance by the dance master. Not infrequently, however, the dance ends in good-humored chaos caused by some high-spirited dancers during the mad dash through the passages between the rows of dancers.At all events, it’s one way of giving renewed energy to tired dancers, who will need it, since the ball seldom ends before 5 am.

At all Viennese balls the official close is also a traditional affair. The lights in the ballroom are dimmed and the orchestra plays the slightly melancholic and downbeat waltz “Brüderlein fein, musst nicht gar so traurig sein” and the remaining revelers step out onto the dance floor for the last time. Many people end the night with a bowl of spicy goulash soup in one of the countless nearby coffee houses which are open at this early hour throughout the ball season. A hearty snack from a sausage stand is another popular option.

Photos: © WienTourismus/Peter Rigaud/Couture Vivienne Westwood Vienna